| The first step is to remove the bulb. This is
easy to do, it's a bi-pin design. The glass is slippery and
hard to hold onto, but a small piece of rubber tubing over it
or needle-nosed pliers solve the gripping problem.
The National Semiconductor LM2621 DC/DC step-up converter
evaluation board is adjusted to provide 3.1 volts to pump
up the 2AA batts enough to drive the LS at around 310 mA.
Details on this circuit modification are available at http://thelightsite.cruxial.com/mods/mods_index.htm.
Although it would be nice to drive it the LS harder so it
is even brighter, heat becomes a worry and since in this mod
the LS is encased in plastic without a large heat-sink, the
310 mA level is just about right. Neither the LS nor the DC/DC
stepup converter get warm. The 2621 PCB has to be cut down
just about as small as you can take it without removing any
circuit traces. Some of the other DC/DC PCB's noted easily
searched on Candle Power Forums might be better choices for
this mod, but the National evaluation board requires the least
effort.
The LS heat sink must be trimmed on two sides flush with
the black plastic collimator retaining collar, and the corners
have to be rounded as well.

Mounting the LM2621 to the bottom of the LS aluminum heat
sink keeps the light module depth shallow enough to fit in
the head, and allows enough room for a thin (1/16th inch)
layer of rubber to be sandwiched between them to help isolate
any heat the LS generates from the LM2621. "GOO"
All Purpose Adhesive" worked great to make it all
stick together and then, after wiring the LM2621 to the LS
and attaching leads for power, some 30 minute epoxy nicely
pots the converter to protect it from any moisture or rough
handling.
Inside the flashlight's spherical head, the housing that
held the lamp assembly must be cut down so the LS and converter
will fit. Also, inside the head there are two plastic hinges
that allow the flashlight head to tilt. Both hinge posts protrude
into the cavity and must be shortened so the new LS assembly
will fit between them. The shortening isn't difficult, but
needs some care so you don't shorten them too much.
The reflector comes apart from the screw-on collar after
a small struggle. Gently rocking the reflector back and forth
while holding the black plastic collar ... pulling and twisting
... will get them apart. Cut out the reflector's base just
enough to get the LS barrel through. The reflector plays nicely
centers the LS in the head when it all goes back together.
Once I determined which were the positive and negative leads
in the bottom of the flashlight, I soldered the converter's
power leads to them. Then, with some nudging and minor fitting,
the flashlight easily reassembled.

This one, my last finished modification, is
a more than little on the gaudy side, but it is very easy
to locate at night when I'm camping. I put white and red 3M
Scotchlite films on the sides so it flashes when hit with
light from another flashlight. I used some Nichia blue-green
glow powder paint below the switch and Alien Skin on the opposite
side so the light shines in the middle of the night when nature
calls. The reflector is also covered with glow paint (which
is slightly charged when the light is on), so no matter the
flashlight's orientation, some glow always shows.
This is a handy, pocketable, flexible flashlight that provides
about 2 hours of very bright light, a couple more hours of
moderate light, and many, many hours of 'moon-mode' light.
A tip of the hat to CPF member 'Silviron' who first modded
the Ray-O-Vac swivel head flashlight with a single 5mm Nichia
white LED in July, 2001; and to CPF member Quickbeam for his detailed instructions on converting the National
Semiconductor LM2621 evaluation board.
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